nik_turbin: переводы

→However, sports more reliant on technique or with a broader range of contributing skills make age slightly less important. It seems climbing is one of these sports. Climbing is a slightly unusual case because of its unstructured freedom. There is immense opportunity to find a niche within its broad church of activities in which you can excel. This can take a long time to discover. So for lots of reasons, climbers can be good at a very young or impressively old age. It seems every year that goes by sees the highest grades in climbing (especially sport climbing) achieved by both younger and older extremes. At the time of writing this book, we have French Enzo Oddo climbing several 9as at 14, and Stevie Haston climbing his first 9a at 52. A related phenomenon is the small difference between elite performances between men and women.

→One of the most striking trends in elite level sport climbing in the last couple of years has been the age of the top performers. In many other sports, personal best performances at a world class level happen during the twenties and early thirties. The reasons for this are actually quite complex and have a lot to do with the limitations on performance set by other sports. It’s also heavily dependent on how much the sport relies on particular performance aspects. For instance, sports heavily reliant on pure strength, endurance or reaction time are harder to perform in for either the very young or old.

→Making sense of Haston and Oddo

→Mini case study: I used to be one of those who crimped too much, and averaged about 3 serious pulley injuries per year for 5 years until I finally was forced to get strong openhanded, and to love this grip position too. Since then I’ve had one very minor pulley tweak (needing only a slight drop in training intensity for a few weeks) in the past five years.

→Having said all this, the vast majority of climbers crimp far too much and would seriously benefit, in both performance and injury risk, in developing their openhanded grip to a point where they use it more often than crimps and are at least as strong openhanded as crimped.

→The safest formula will be to do the most intensive basic strength work with a four or three finger openhanded grip, and train crimps mostly on steep powerful boulder problems. That said, any crimping is only relatively safe if your technique is good. Poor footwork, leading to sudden foot slips, or a violent climbing style will make it just as dangerous as campusing. Crimping during real climbing tends to be less hard on the body because the accelerations are slower than with campusing. Also, the body is often turned underneath the hold to bring the wrist into a neutral position during the highest force part of the move and the hold is generally grabbed openhanded before closing into a crimp.

→When climbing on the board, don’t overuse contrived rules to make the climbing harder such as eliminating sharing hands/feet, heelhooking or other technical solutions. Learn to set better problems instead. It doesn’t take long for the techniques you eliminate in training to become eliminated from your habitual repertoire on real rock. Subconsciously, you just don’t choose them. If you add or increase the amount of more basic ‘system’ like problems that train one specific aspect like such as shouldery front-on moves without twisting or dropping the knee, add at least as much practice in these techniques so your body still remembers how to do them.

→If you increase the volume of climbing on a single board, make sure the volume of all your other climbing increases too so you gain the technique to actually apply your strength gains from the board. The only exceptions are those climbers who have a home board because there is absolutely no access to any other facility to give some variety. They will have to lean even more heavily on the methods to break up the monotony of the board.